between crisis and small bubbles of success

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Famous bubbles, often essential during the holidays. But between promotions, big brands and small producers, from 15 to more than 90 euros, how to choose your bottle of champagne?

There are those like Jean-Denis Lucas who do not hesitate: “In the family, we took that brand, so in fact, I continued to take that brand and it suits everyone.” And there are those who seek advice while keeping their budget: “I trust the gentleman in the department. Afterwards, all my friends only take harvest champagnes and often, they go to the cellar to get them.”

Independent winegrowers are doing well with increasing sales. This is the case of Étienne Delaunois, fifth generation of winegrowers, with 5 hectares of vines in Rilly-la-Montagne. It produces nearly 20,000 bottles of premier cru champagne each year, with the pride of perpetuating true know-how.“We already know the soils very well, we know the vines very well since it was either me who planted them, or the generation before or even the one before that,” explains the winemaker.

Pressing the grapes, vinification, blending, bottling: everything is done entirely on site. It offers around ten references with a starting price of 21 euros per bottle. Champagnes that he lets age for at least three years in his cellars. “We really have an identity champagne that is not standardized. Each bottle that will be in this cellar will necessarily pass through my hands once,” underlines Étienne Delaunois.

Here, sales are growing. Érika Blaszczak manages shipping. Its customers are mainly French or European individuals, seduced by the authenticity of this champagne. She explains: “For 4-5 years, consumption has changed. The consumer is looking for a story, looking for an identity, a product that is sold directly and not a product that everyone could have.”

The success of independent winegrowers is also reflected in this cellar located in downtown Épernay. Jean-Noël Pouille offers champagnes from around forty small producers. A success which can be explained by the prices: “22 euros per bottle. Before buying, you have approximately 120 euros, for 6 bottles of an excellent product. And of the big brands, you only have one bottle.”

Another attractive argument for regulars: the breadth of choices. “The advantage of coming here is that we have multiple producers. Often, on Sundays, we come to pick up a bottle, depending on what we are going to eat, following the meal, following with friends,” confides a customer.

While independent winegrowers are celebrating, global sales of champagne fell by 9% last year.