customers at the opening of Shein at BHV in Paris, despite the scandal and criticism

Rue de Rivoli finds itself cut in two. On one side, in front of the Paris town hall, groups of demonstrators protest against the arrival of Shein, Wednesday November 5, on the 6th floor of the City Hall Bazaar (BHV). On the other hand, consumers came to line up at 10 a.m. in front of the department store in the hope of getting their hands on a 10-euro bra or a 23-euro sweater.

“I’m already a customer. I already buy a lot on Shein and the quality is good, it doesn’t change. Frankly, between the quality and the price, it’s difficult to find that in other stores”assures Leila in the queue. However, one recent France Télévisions survey demonstrates rapid degradation of clothing purchased on the platform, through laboratory tests.

“I came for the prices! Even if it wears out faster, it’s still interesting”Wafa retorts. This 43-year-old mother was not dissuaded by the criticism surrounding the brand. “I first look at my purchasing power. For me, that’s the most important thing. Then, knowing how it’s made…” The store opens at 1 p.m. and the wait promises to be long for the hundred or so customers in a hurry, who have come to discover the physical space of the Asian ultra-ephemeral fashion giant. This is a “world premiere”rejoiced BHV boss Frédéric Merlin.

Large banners bearing the image of Shein were displayed on the facade of the BHV. To attract the curious, the store also promised reduction tickets in exchange for any transaction made in the area dedicated to the brand. “I’m not necessarily attracted to Shein, but more to the voucher”admits Sandra, 36 years old. However, the young woman finds it unfair to make consumers feel guilty. “If there are efforts to be made, it is on the government side. We must increase purchasing power so that we can consume locally.”

To keep its customers waiting, the BHV staff distributes pastries with a smile. “We came out of curiosity, since we live nearby, it’s a bit of a small event all the same”testifies Serge, picking up a croissant.

A little further down the street, various groups of demonstrators came to protest against the arrival with great fanfare of this company founded in China and based in Singapore. “Shame on BHV”shout the members of Mouv’Enfants, an association fighting against violence against children. Shein has been under fire since the revelation on Saturday by the general directorate of competition, consumption and the repression of fraud of the sale of child pornography dolls. The head of government, Sébastien Lecornu, announced Wednesday afternoon that he was initiating a “suspension” procedure. in France of the Shein digital platform, “time” that the latter complies with the laws of the country.

The left like the Horizons party of Edouard Philippe mobilized to denounce “an anti-model, one that damages our planet and ethical rules and principles”in the words of Pierre-Yves Bournazel, Horizons candidate for mayor of Paris. The brand is regularly highlighted for its environmental impact, as well as for the working conditions of its textile workers. The brand’s items arrive directly from China, with a free return policy. Certain products therefore sometimes return to Asia or are stored in warehouses in Poland or Italy before being resold, observes a recent report by the NGOs Action Aid France and China Labor Watch. According to his own report sustainability, the company emitted 26.2 million tonnes of CO2 in 2024, which represents an increase of 23.1% compared to the previous year.

But in the BHV queue, consumers denounce the inconsistency Shein detractors. “We have to stop being hypocritical, all our clothes are Chinese. Household appliances are Chinese”Tina answers. “Even in made in France, there is a part of the production that is done in China. So it comes down to the same thing”continues Laura*, 20 years old.

“As a student, it’s a lot cheaper for me. We have a lot more choice, a lot more possibilities.”

Chantal never orders anything online, fearing piracy, and therefore feels she has the right, this time, to take a look at the new store. “Lesson givers can already stop buying on the internet”says the 69-year-old retiree. “We know it’s wrong, that we use people to make clothes, we know that very well. But all the other stores are also made in Pakistan or made in Bangladesh. So why are we targeting Shein in particular?” If we want to clear our conscience, we stop everything that is a foreign product.”

“If you want to criticize products that come from China, you have to start by throwing away your cell phone,” continues Ricardo. This Portuguese man, who has just moved to Paris, accompanies his wife, a Shein fan. “She buys a lot of the brand’s products online. And as it’s Shein’s first physical store, she obviously wanted to come. It was almost an obligation to be there”he says. “She orders on her phone and it arrives at home. And the products are good. Her coat, for example, she found for 35 euros on the platform.”

A little further away, Brigitte, 67, came to scout for her 27-year-old daughter. “My children are all about Shein. My daughter has been buying for years and has noticed that the quality is good, while being inexpensive. And there really is everything, there are large sizes for the clothes”enthuses this young retiree. She has of course heard about the environmental problems posed by ultra fast fashion, but the temptation is too strong. “I have a very eco-friendly friend who tells me: ‘It hurts my heart, but I’m thinking about my wallet.’ When you don’t have the budget, you have to turn to that.”

* The first name has been changed.