The critical success of collagen, this “elixir of youth” which does not convince dermatologists

On social networks, videos praising the benefits of collagen on the skin, hair, joint pain is multiplying, so much so that it is sometimes presented as an “elixir of youth”. This is collagen to eat in the form of a capsule, or to drink for its powdered version. These nutricosmetics (food supplements that provide health benefits, according to its promoters) are a real success. And there are now cafes-college.

One of them, The 48 Collagen CaféOpened in Paris and serves collagen drinks. In this old printing house, the decoration is very modern, like the map. François ordered a very blue slat coffee, based on vegetable milk, vanilla, and a small powder. It is “A collagen and spirulina drink “he explains. According to him“Collagen helps on a lot of things, especially skin, tendons, muscles”. This man, at “rather sporty profile”, explains that he consumes it “A bit like a recovery drink”.

The latte is billed less than 10 euros, a little more than the classic version, but the concept works. Amandine Fornot, who was inspired by her trips to Asia and the United States to create the Collagen Café, does not pretend to have found the miracle remedy against old age, but she wants to bring well-being to her customers. They have been more and more numerous since the opening a year ago. At first, she remembers that “Many people wanted to discover this spectacular concept of very colorful drinks”. “Then, I had a much more esthete clientele who said: ‘I travel a lot, I was missing not to have functional drinks”she continues.

The nutricosmetics market is doing well mainly thanks to social networks. Influencers relay this trend, especially Tibo Inshape, the most followed content creator in France on Instagram. He claims in a video that this type of nutricosmetics is “Really a healthy food supplement, with zero fat and zero sugar. Collagen is a protein that will help you have a strong, healthy body”.

Today, dozens of brands offer collagen in powder or capsule. However, no scientific study proves its effectiveness, on wrinkles for example. “For me, all this is pipeau”Even loose Isabelle Rousseaux, from the National Union of Dermatologists. “Collagen is a big protein, so it’s full of amino acids, small molecules that arrive at the intestines and which are taken care of by blood circulation, explains the doctor before emphasizing: How do you want it to go preferably in terms of the skin? It’s going everywhere ! “” As for an effect on joint pain, there is no more medical evidence according to this dermatologist.